Setting & Repair
How setting and claw work is assessed
The visible tip is only one part of the setting. Security depends on the stone, seat and surrounding metal working together.
A setting assessment starts with the stone and the complete setting. Movement, contact, symmetry and remaining metal all affect whether tightening, retipping, rebuilding or a wider repair is appropriate.
Tightening, retipping and rebuilding are different scopes.
Movement does not automatically mean the same repair on every setting. The remaining metal, seat, claw profile, stone condition and neighbouring claws all affect whether a local adjustment is enough.
A useful enquiry shows the full setting before concentrating on one visible problem. That context helps the workshop identify what must be inspected when the piece arrives.
Stone information
- Supply stone shape and exact dimensions.
- Record chips, abrasions, inclusions or known treatments.
- For multi-stone work, use a map that cannot be confused when the piece is rotated.
Mount information
- Identify metal and setting style.
- Show damaged, snagging or moving areas in close photographs.
- Disclose earlier retipping, replacement stones or other repairs where known.
Repair language
- Tightening addresses movement in an otherwise serviceable setting.
- Retipping restores the worn contact area at the end of a claw.
- Rebuilding restores more of the claw where local wear is too extensive.
Details that are often missed
- Showing only the most worn claw rather than the complete setting.
- Supplying carat weight without exact stone dimensions.
- Failing to mention impact, movement or earlier retipping.
- Assuming every worn tip can be repaired without wider setting work.