Setting & Repair
What to include in a ring-sizing brief
Target size is essential, but it is not the only measurement the workshop needs.
A sizing decision has to account for the shank, stones, metal and previous work. A good brief gives the workshop enough context to assess method, material and finish before the ring is altered.
The target size is only one part of the sizing decision.
Metal, shank width, profile, stone-set shoulders, hallmarks and previous joins all influence how a ring can be altered and refinished. The difference between present and required size must be considered alongside that construction.
When several rings are submitted together, list each present size and target size separately. Do not rely on position in a tray or a photograph to identify them.
Measurements
- State the present and required UK size.
- Measure the shank width where the alteration will be made.
- Add finished profile or thickness requirements when these are critical.
Construction
- Identify metal and mixed-metal areas.
- Show stone-set shoulders and any stones around the full circumference.
- Record visible joins, sizing beads, inserts and previous alterations.
Finish and marks
- Confirm whether rhodium or a particular surface finish is required.
- Photograph hallmarks before the job.
- Flag any inscription or detail close to the planned alteration.
Sizing details that create uncertainty
- Giving only the target size and not the present size.
- Measuring width away from the section that will be altered.
- Leaving previous sizing joins or inserts unmentioned.
- Not marking inscriptions, hallmarks or finishes near the work.